Boat Maintenance

TIPS FOR BOAT "SUMMERIZATION"

The following "to-do" list may be helpful in making preparations for leaving your boat for extended periods of time, especially during the summer. Since each boat has it's own unique characteristics, the list of preparation tasks may have to be modified to suit your particular needs. Your owner's manual usually has instructions for winterizing your boat. Except for freeze protection, a number of the winterizing directions apply to "summarizing." Nothing herein represents a recommendation by BSIBC.

" At end of last trip, get holding tank pumped out and then add tank chemical per instructions to minimize buildup of odor.
" Add fuel stabilizer before end of last trip (to get stabilized fuel into engine). Fill fuel tank (and correct amount of stabilizer) to minimize water accumulation in the fuel tank caused by drawing humid air into tank during temperature cycles.
" Inboard engines may be fogged with fogging oil per manufacturer's directions. Outboard engines should be run dry (disconnect fuel line with engine idling). If possible, tilt engine back and forth to prevent fuel from pooling in carburetor or injectors.
" Clean interior (particularly head compartment).
" Clean refrigerator and leave door open (door may be closed if baking soda is put inside).
" Put chlorine tablets in fresh water tank and run some water in behind and allow to dissolve before draining the water tank by flushing all lines to sinks, shower, etc.
" Remove all loose items from cockpit and put in cabin, garage or house, as appropriate. Put seat cushions and similar items on edge or prop up so that air can circulate around them.
" Connect shore power and ensure charger/inverter is on and both AC and DC power is available. If someone will be checking your house while you are away, show him or her where your shore power circuit breaker is and have him or her check it is not tripped, particularly after heavy rain.
" Install dehumidifier and run for two or three days before leaving boat, then check for correct operation.
NOTE: The dehumidifier bucket must be removed (or the dehumidifier will stop working when the bucket is full). The dehumidifier's wheels may fit inside the galley sink, which stops the dehumidifier from moving about. If not, provide blocks to keep dehumidifier from moving. Consider rigging a rope or similar tie down to prevent unit from tipping over if heavy wind severely rocks boat. Install soft plastic tubing from the dehumidifier drain connection to a location that drains to the outside by gravity (e.g., galley sink drain). Avoid draining to the floor of the shower or bilge, which drains via a sump pump that could fail sometime during the summer and cause a flood inside the boat.
If your boat is in the water, you might consider running your air conditioner at a relatively high temperature, although your electric bill will be significantly higher.
" Treat enclosure and cover zippers and snaps with snap stick.
" If you are removing and storing canvas and isenglas panels, freshwater wash all canvas and, when dry, remove, roll & store. Clean isenglas and treat isenglas with UV resisting treatment. Put clean soft fabric or paper against isenglas before rolling. Remove bimini frame. Store all in garage or house (if garage is prone to high humidity and temperature). Isenglas panels could be stored flat under a bed to prevent taking a "set." Install cockpit canvas, if available. Be sure cockpit canvas has pole(s) or stay(s) to prevent rainwater from puddling on the cover.
NOTE: The above cleaning and treating steps should be employed even if canvas and isenglas will remain on boat (e.g., to protect cockpit from rain).
CAUTION: Avoid using harsh cleaners (e.g., containing ammonia) on isenglas to prevent browning.
" Check batteries for proper electrolyte level and full charge.
" Spray engine(s) and other engine compartment equipment with CorrosionX or equal (such as CRC).
" Put fenders between boat and lift, put lift in highest position.
CAUTION: Wind load on pilings increases with the lift at a higher position. Use your best judgment in selecting lift height if you are concerned about the strength of the lift pilings.
" Consider strapping boat down in case it could be blown off the lift in a hurricane and float away as happened to some boats during Charley. Lightweight boats might be strapped down to the lift cradle. It may be better to tie the boat to the fixed lift rails at the four corners and leave slack in ropes to allow about 2 to 3 feet of rise of boat above the lift cradle. If there is a large storm surge (say more than 6 feet or so) and the boat is tied down to the cradle, there might not be enough flotation for the boat and lift cradle to float without taking water over the gunnel or stern. The boat should settle down on the lift cradle relatively close to its original position when the surge subsides. You might consult "Charley experienced" members for comment on what might be best.
" Dingies should be tied down and stored upside down or covered with the drain plug removed.

If your boat is due or nearly due for its annual servicing, it might be a good idea to have it done before the boat is laid up for the summer.

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